Gelukkig Nieuwjaar !

Happy 2011!!!  G and I wish you a happy and healthy 2011!

The annual celebration of the Oud en Nieuw is practically a global party.  This was our 3rd year to ring in the New Year in Amsterdam.  Over the last two years, we braved the cold and the crowds in de Dam (Dam Square) and Museumplein (Museum Square).  But this year we had a few friends over for dinner then trekked up to the roof to enjoy the city wide fireworks and I think it was our best Dutch NYE.  Sparklers in one hand and champagne in the other, we counted down to midnight several hours before our family and friends in the States.   The first hour of the New Year was a spectacular fireworks display illuminating every corner of the Amsterdam sky.  Fireworks surrounded us and it seemed like it was our own personal show.

Click here for more photos.

Dinner is almost ready

Eet Smakelijk!

No more snow!

It’s official.  I have a love-hate relationship with snow.  Growing up in Louisiana, snow was a very rare sight.  We were lucky if we had snow once every 5-7 years.  When we did, the entire city shut down.  Schools were closed and people were encouraged to stay home and off the roads.  But this usually only lasted one day as the temperatures soon turned the snow to water.

NYC was another story.  We were guaranteed to have snowfall every winter. Some winters worse than others.  The snow started out as a beautiful white blanket, but soon became dirty black sludge piled up on the corners so pedestrians could navigate the sidewalks.

While Amsterdam is even further north, heavy snowfall is not typical for The Netherlands.  With the country at sea level, the weather tends to be humid and if the snow does fall, it usually doesn’t stick very long.  Last winter proved to be quite an anomaly as it was the snowiest winter in 30 years” and it looks like this winter might be on the same track.   This past weekend, G and I were going to meet up in London for a quick holiday weekend before heading to the States to visit our families for Christmas.  I was really excited about my first trip to London; however Mother Nature had other plans for me…

 

5:10am – A persistent beeping from my alarm clock warns me to get up or be late.

5:15am – Call to G to make sure he’s awake in Paris to catch the train to London.

6:55am – Out the door (5 minutes early, a miracle mind you) and off to Schiphol Airport.

Note:  Half way to the airport, a mad flurry of snow begins to fall.

7:20am – Baggage checked in for my 8:40 flight to London.  Bag weighs only 10.5kg, another miracle.  KLM staff confirms the flight is on-time.

8:40am – Sitting at the gate with a white blanket outside the window.

9:00am – Boarded and the wait begins.  Wait. Wait. Wait.

10:40am – Plane is finally towed to a de-icing station.

11:05am – Captain’s Update:  “De-icing is finished, but the tarmac is full of snow and we are waiting for it to be cleared.”  Cleared?  For what…does he really think we are taking off?  Just cancel the flight already.

11:30am – Captain’s Update: “We are cleared for take-off; flight attendants, take your seat.”  Ok, so now I’m a teeny bit optimistic.

11:42am – Captain’s Update:  “The wings are frozen and won’t operate properly; we need to go back to the gate so an engineer can fix it.”  Fix the frozen wing?  No thank you…can I deplane now?

12:12pm – Captain’s Update: “Schiphol is starting to close down, but we are still  working to get the wing fixed for take-off.” Whyyyyyy?

12:20pm – Captain’s Update: “I’m sorry, Schiphol has been closed and this flight is now cancelled.  [And to add insult to injury] There is currently no one at the gate, so please remain seated until we are able to deplane.”

1:05pm – Four hours after I boarded, I am finally walking off the plane.  Little did I  know that trying to get home was going to involve more drama than trying to get to London.  The arrival hall was a total circus and I was advised to try to recover my bag tomorrow.

1:15pm – Outside and waiting for the bus as airport personnel advised the trains were delayed or cancelled.

2:00pm – After standing in the freezing temperatures and unending snow fall, the bus finally arrives.  Unfortunately it says “geen deinst” (no service). I turn to look at the cab line which shows 30+ people in line and no cabs in the queue.

2:08pm – In line for a train ticket.

2:15pm – Mad dash down stairs for the 2:19 train.

2:19pm – I slump down in my seat and breathe a small sigh of relief that I’m en route home.  The train from Schiphol to Centraal Station is on average 17 minutes.  Given the weather, I anticipate it could take up to an hour.

2:30pm – Train stops.

2:55pm – Conductor’s Update:  “We have a switch problem and will be delayed indefinitely.”

3:25pm – We haven’t moved.  The snack cart rolls by and I purchase my first meal of the day.

Green tea and cashews...gourmet dining, huh?

4:30pm – Finally begin moving, only to stop again just 500 meters shy of Centraal Station.

5:10pm – Arrive at Central Station, nine minutes shy of a three hour ride.  After ten hours in transit, I anticipate the trams are not running and mentally prepare myself for a 45-minute walk home.  Did I mention that it is now below freezing and my heavy hat, gloves, and scarf are in my checked bag that is somewhere in the chaos of Schiphol’s basement?

5:22pm – I catch a break and board the tram.

5:55pm – Eleven hours later, I’m back home.  I don’t have my luggage, but I do have a sore throat and fever.  Fabulous.

Over the next few hours I cancelled our hotel, worked on a refund for my flight and tried to get an update on my luggage while drinking a cup of Thera-Flu.  G was able to change his flight and leave London, but we were not sure if the plane would actually take off.  After a few hours of delays and a slippery drive in the snow, he made it home just after 1am.

No Fun-in-London for us.  Instead, I spent the weekend eating G’s homemade chicken soup, emptying boxes of tissue  and wondering if my luggage would ever surface from the madness at Schiphol.

Snow White

Yes, you are seeing snowflakes fall on the blog site.  Kinda cute, huh? Apparently a new feature WordPress has until January.  I thought appropriate to enable as I learned it is a winter wonderland back in Amsterdam.  We had some flurries on Saturday morning when I left town, but everything had vanished by the time my plane took off.  Talking with G over the last few days, it sounds like it is very KOUD and WITTE all over the city.  Despite the fact that I’m in the South right now, the temperatures are expected to drop below freezing for a bit overnight.  Thankfully the the sunny days bring warmer temperatures around 65F/18C.  But I best not get too used to it…back to the real winter in the North next week for me.

Last winter, the snow started in mid-December and hung around through February.  I felt like every photo I took during my first few months was a total white-out.  So, until I return to capture some of the Winter Wonderland, I’ll leave you with some scenes from last year…

[remember, you can click on any of the photos to view larger]

 

Vondelpark

Vondelpark

Vondelpark

Amstelveen

City Centre

Vondelpark

Vondelpark

Maastricht

 

 

 

Mama-fied

G and I can walk bike the streets of Amsterdam with our heads held high now that we have indulged in the late night offerings of Mama’s.  In a town where 24-hour diners and late night pizza shops are about as common as a day without rain, you can find gastronomical refuge within the dime-a-dozen Shawarma eateries.  A great way to settle both the late night munchies and the countless Belgium or Dutch biers consumed during the evening.  We’ve been to other shawarma snack bars, but our friends rave that Mama’s is the lekkerst (yummiest!)!  The only downfall to Mama’s (and probably one reason it took us so long to finally try it) is that it’s smack in the middle of Leidseplein, the U.S. equivalent of Times Square or Bourbon Street.  In other words, an area we typically avoid during our weekend outings or bike rides home from the Center.

But last night, the stars were aligned and it was finally a Mama’s night.  We attended a farewell party for G’s colleague, read: bier + bier + bier + bier, etc.  The evening was very gezellig, we were all having a great time and dinner time came and past.  With the witching hour growing near and the party winding down, our hunger pains were kicking in.  It was a unanimous decision to stop at Mama’s.  We peddled down the canal with a drizzle in the air and anticipated our meaty dish.

A & A arrived just before us and kindly ordered for all.  G & I walked in to warm shawarma pitas awaiting us on the counter.  Followed by a bowl of frites, we soon had happy tummies and G and I were officially Mama-neophytes.  No more dropped jaw reactions coupled with “you’ve never eaten at Mama’s?!?

 

eet smakelijk!

 

Salt for your frites? Ja!

On the note of late night eats, I couldn’t help but think of a few others I used to frequent in my previous cites.  During my college days in Shreveport, Murrell’s was open 24 hours with waitstaff that addressed you by honey-baby-sugar-dawlin with every roll of the tongue.  Like every poor college student whose funds were now in a bartenders tip jar, the abundance of complimentary saltine crackers + green goddess was a jackpot.  Maybe that’s why they are now closed.  Despite the limited seating, The Camellia Grill in Uptown New Orleans was a staple late night or late morning after a really late night.  The omlettes are amazing and the staff always entertaining.  If you are ever in Nola, it’s a must stop.  Like New Orleans, the NYC area food options are endless and hard to narrow down.  However, late nights in Hoboken, NJ always ended with a slice of pizza from Imposto’s on Washington.  For Manhattan, I could easily rattle off a dozen late night diners or cafes, but L’Express has always been a favorite with some of the best fries, great coffee, and excellent people watching.  Conveniently located just north of Union Square ,  it was always easy to hail a cab or catch the express train home from there.

Wishing you good eats where ever you may be!  Tot Ziens…

 

Road trip to Poland?

Not quite, but a road trip to Nijkerk can fill your fix for Polish Pottery.  What is Polish Pottery?  That was the same thing I asked about nine months ago when said pottery was placed on the table proudly displaying some cheese and crackers.

“Ohhhhh, I love that pattern! I want that piece for my Polish Pottery collection too.”, I heard.

Uh-oh…not only is our house sans Polish Pottery, but I don’t even know what it is.  Dare I ask my new found ex-pat girlfriends?  At the time, I was the “new-kid-in-the-country” and trying my best to assimilate with both the Dutch locals and US ex-pats.  Might I not be asked to host an afternoon of Mah Jongg if I didn’t posses Polish Pottery, I wondered?  Fortunately the girls were happy (G not so happy) to introduce me to the world of Polish Pottery.

Polish Pottery is the famous hand-made pottery from the small town of Boleslawiec, located in the southwest of Poland. It’s made from stoneware clay that is locally harvested, only sold to the Polish Pottery factories and fires white. The pottery is heavy duty, lead-free, and oven/dishwasher/freezer/microwave-safe.  But most importantly, fun colors and beautiful patterns!

I had no idea this pottery dated back hundreds of years.  Here’s a bit of history courtesy of the Zaklady Ceramiczne “Boleslawiec” factory:

The present high standing of Boleslawiec Ceramics stems from seven centuries of work by local craftsmen and artists of pottery. The oldest pieces of Boleslawiec pottery that are still in existence, date back to the first half of the 16th century and bear distinctive features of the Renaissance style. The technique of decorating underneath the glaze began with the age of Baroque.

Growing popularity of Boleslawiec Ceramics stimulated demand which in turn led to the growing number of manufacturers set up to produce pottery. The punch technique remained the basic decorative technique. Rising fame of original Boleslawiec Ceramics, which differed in style from china and yet was considered equally refined, made it possible to increase the volumes of production and, consequently, in the middle of the 19th century, Boleslawiec became the center of the ceramic industry in central Europe.

 

Warehouse was actually packed today and harder to navigate

In Nijkerk, there is a distributor open on various Fridays.  My first trip in May was unbelievably overwhelming.  Shelves are stacked to the ceiling and endless rows to sift through.  I didn’t know where to start and in the back of my head I heard G saying “you realize there is only so much kitchen space when we move back to NYC”.  I think I actually walked around for an hour before I even picked a piece up.  I finally left with 2 mugs, a small oval casserole, and 2 serving bowls for less than 100E.  The hardest part was picking a pattern(s), then finding the pieces you want in that pattern(s).  I guess this something similar to what my friend’s went through when doing bridal registries…it’s quite fun, but very overwhelming.

 

AFW makes a last minute pattern change

Sometimes you have to dig in boxes to find your prize

As of today, I now have three trips under my belt, but still keep purchases to a minimum as we “don’t know where we will put it when we are back in NYC”.  And with Nijkerk  ~65km away, my stick-shift driving skills are getting much needed practice.

 

 

A new bowl with each trip

Bubble Mugs...perfect for the cold winter days ahead.

Autumn is here

Brooklyn

I usually called it fall. I have since learned that is very “North American”. Whatever you may call it; it’s still my favorite season.  Growing up in Louisiana, I didn’t usually experience the brisk autumn weather and changing of the leaves in September as the temperatures and humidity were still peaking.  Moving to NYC brought a renewed perspective on autumn.  Hook, line, and sinker…I was sold on this area of the country!  Each year with the passing of Labor Day, I was filled with the anxiety of a 5-year-old at Christmas time waiting to open gifts.  The autumn season is truly a gift to me.  I love the cooler days and invigorating crisp air.  The wind rustling through the trees in Central Park and warm shades of leaves sprinkled on the ground.  Football season is underway.  Sweaters are soon standard daily attire.  My friend H used to always call me when she had her first Pumpkin Latte sighting at Starbucks during her morning coffee run.  With that, I knew autumn was in full swing.

2005 - Apple picking in Warwick Valley, NY

2008 - A's portraits in Central Park

2009 - Williamsburg, VA

2009 - Bear Mountain, NY

H's Lil man says Who Dat?

Autumn, take 3.  Now I’m even further north and autumn in Amsterdam is an amalgamation of past years.  Rain/humidity in Louisiana + cooler temperatures in NYC = autumn in Amsterdam.  Leaving the house the other day required a tote bag full of the following:

  • Sunglass:  because it was actually shining at the moment;
  • Hat:  as the radar indicated rain clouds were coming;
  • Light jacket:  since I was wearing a tshirt and the temps were on a roller coaster ride;
  • Cotton scarf:  at times the jacket was too much and the tshirt was too little;
  • Rain poncho:  bike riding in the rain while getting soaked is miserable in cooler weather;
  • Bike seat cover:  would you want to get off your bike and look like you just wet your pants?;
  • Dry bag to carry SLR:  unemployment = no new camera if the current one is ruined;
  • Kitchen sink:  because I’m already hauling everything else, so why not.

When the sun is shining, it’s a beautiful time to sit canal side and enjoy a coffee or beer.  But when it’s raining, stay inside or gear up!

2010 - Vondelpark

2010 - Sunset in Vondelpark

On Saturday, the day/night was split into exactly 12 hours with sunrise at 7:32a and sunset at 7:32p.  The months of May, June, and July were ones with little rain and 15 -16 hours of daylight.  It’s the trade off for the rainy season that is now underway.  So I will adjust to this “new autumn” and hope for a few dry, sunny days in the mix ahead.

ps, A semi-annual reminder to check your smoke detectors.

R & G’s B&B

A month ago we returned to Amsterdam after a great time with family and friends in the States.  The next day, we started visitor season.  It’s my only plausible excuse for the lack of blog posts lately.

It is a rather tricky time of year here with the weather.  One day is beautiful, sunny t-shirt type weather; the next day is chilly and won’t stop raining.  And then there is the teaser day that starts out sunny, and later becomes rainy—or vice versa—and you find yourself outfitted in the wrong gear.  So, either pack the kitchen sink or roll the dice when you head out for the day.  Sadly, our first set of visitors had to trek to Bruges to see that the sun does exist this far north.  G’s mom and her friend came to visit and they spent their week in Amsterdam under the refuge of a raincoat.

Rainy day on the Prinsengraft

However, after heavily bribing the sun gods and trekking a bit south to Bruges, we found sunshine!  Along with an abundance of Belgium beer, frites, chocolate, and waffles.  Loves for the tummy, but sworn enemies to my derrière.  Regardless, I indulged! Click here for a full photoshow.

Canals along Dijver

Bruges Canals

Minnewater Park

Driving back to Amsterdam, we couldn’t help but laugh as we crossed the Belgium/Dutch border and were greeted by, what else…rain! At this point, our guests were used to it and we toughed it out on their last day at Zaanse Schans to see the windmills.  Click here for a full photoshow.

Not a good open-air museum day

Still windy, but at least no rain for the photo op

A few days later, G’s pseudo-sister and her cousin arrived.  The weather made a complete 180 and showered them with mild temperatures and sunshine all week.  I think Mother Nature knew they would spend a lot of time on the bike, so she was kind to them.  C & K also made an overnight trip to Bruges and discovered my four deadly favorites.  With all its charm, Bruges again tops the favorites list with our guests.

Proost!

G & C at the Brouwerij

C & K waiting for dinner at Balti House

We bid adieu to C & K and prepare for G’s cousin and wife arriving the next day.  The weather is gloomy when they first arrive, but with lunch in our bellies and two rental bikes in the pack, we are ready to show them around.  When the weather cooperates, we love to bring our guests to the Brouwerij ‘t IJ .  Turns out this was a day that started ugly, but peaked during the late afternoon.  After a ride along the picturesque canals and the obligatory gawking in the red light district, we were off to the brewery to replenish our energy with some local beer and cheese.  Lekker!

Mid week they were off to, big surprise here……Bruges (and Boullion)!  With all the guests we have brought or sent to Bruges, I think we have earned a sizeable referral fee from the Belgium tourism department.  Or at least a waffle?!?

New to me was the nearby town of Utrecht.  When S & E returned from Belgium, we spent an afternoon/evening there enjoying the scenery, beer, and pancakes. Dutch pannenkoeken’s are best described as a cross between an American pancake and a French crepe—on the thinner side like a crepe, but served open face with the added items visible.  They are available all day and a typical pannekkoeken house has at least 50 varieties.  Sweet, savory, veggie, meaty, fruity, cheesy…hard not to find one that will suit your craving.  My choice for the night was sprek en kaas (bacon and cheese, super lekker!).

Utrecht canals

Canal reflections

E & S enjoying the scenery

Cousins toast with one last beer

As I brought our guests to the airport this morning, I couldn’t believe how fast a month went by and had to accept the fact summer is clearly over.  The days are getting shorter, fall weather is upon us, and the rainy season is around the corner.  The debauchery of my summer time fun has caught up with me so it’s time to hang up my hostess hat and put in some long hours at the gym!

Say Kaas…

Yea, I say Kaas every time I am at the market, ordering a sandwich, or just having a snack with crackers.  Cheese, please!  Growing up my dad loved cheese and we always had some in the house.  I loved edam and gouda, but had no idea they were actually names of towns in The Netherlands where the cheese originated.

Are you a cheese-head as well?  Not like a Green Bay Packer cheese head, but a Dutch cheese head!  In Dutch, “cheese-head” is also another word for the mold in which the cheese is made. Rumor has it that in the Middle Ages farmers in North Holland used these wooden molds as helmets and this is how the enemy could identify an army of `cheese-heads’ approaching.

Every Friday morning in Alkmaar (April through September) you can watch a demonstration of the traditional cheese market at Waagplein.  With a sunny day upon us, I took a drive with a few girlfriends and went to say kaas!  Click here to read more about Alkmaar’s kaas market and history.

Say KAAS!

Buyers selecting kaas

Cheese lady in wooden clogs

Hauling the cheese off to be weighed…

Then it is ready to be delivered…

One Hundred Eighty Three…

Days.  With the start of a new month, I realized I only have 6 months until my Dutch residence permit expires.  Time is flying faster than I can keep up.  I’ve been here just a tad over 6 months and now only have 6 months left.  Wow.  At least the days are getting longer and the temperatures milder…so I need to get out and soak up as much of The Netherlands (and the rest of EU) since the clock is ticking.

If anyone has figured out the magic formula for slowing time down, I will pay a pretty penny for it.

Nov - My new bike

December

Jan - It never stopped snowing

Feb - Carnaval in Maastricht

March - Tulips are in bloom

April - Boat rides through the canals

May - Windmills at Zaanse Schans

Bevrijdingsdag (Liberation Day)

Netherlands flags wave in the wind

Last night (May 4th) was Dodenherdenking (Remembrance of the Dead) and 2 minutes of silence were observed at 8pm in honor of those who have died in war or peacekeeping missions since WWII.  Thousands of people (including the Queen) filled Dam Square for the annual ceremony at the National Monument.  Sadly, last nights ceremonies were interrupted by panic and chaos due to a screaming man while the silence was being observed.  Click here for the full story.  Fortunately, G & I were at the gym and not in the middle of the chaos.  We did take pause at 8pm with the rest of the gym and respectfully observed silence in honor of those who have fallen.

Today (May 5th) is Bevrijdingsdag (Liberation Day) that marks the end of occupation by Nazi Germany.  It is celebrated by the Dutch every year; however, only observed as an official holiday every 5 years.  The Netherlands was liberated by a mostly Canadian troop with some assistance from the British, American, and French forces.  On May 5th, 1945, an agreement was reached with the German troops in a town called Wageningen which is approximately 90km southeast of Amsterdam.

During our Easter trip to Reims, France, we visited the Surrender Museum (officially known as the Musee de la Reddition German Surrender).  A must see museum even if you are not a war buff!  It is not just another WWII museum, it is THE room where WWII ended.  While this day is officially May 7th, 1945, I thought fitting to include in today’s post.  (Not to mention I haven’t posted anything from our Easter trip to France…yet!)

Left wall in War Room

Center Wall in War Room

Center and Right wall of War Room

The War Room of General Eisenhower occupied a small part of a technical college in Reims centre and remains intact with the original furniture in place and the war maps on the walls.  On May 7th, 1945 at 2.41am the Allied Forces ended WWII by obtaining an unconditional surrender of the Third Reich’s armed forces one week after Hitler’s suicide.  It was pretty amazing to stand in a room and imagine all the activity that once took place…without the convenience of mobile phones, computers, or the internet.  If you are ever in Reims, take a break from the champagne tasting and check out the Surrender Museum.

War Maps

Remains of a tail fin from a fighter aircraft

Museum displays

Of course today is also Cinco de Mayo…so we end the day with a margarita at Los Pilones.

Los Pilones on Kerkstraat